PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIAThe Straits of Malacca, from the northern reaches of Indonesia through to Singapore and Malaysia, comprise one of the great culinary destinations of the world. From fiery laksa to the ubiquitous satay and the elaborate cuisine of the Nonya (Chinese-Malay), this steamy Asian cooking pot has verve and spice that will tantalise the adventurous diner. Authentic cuisine from this region is a little thin on the ground in Canberra. Luckily, Malayisan-born chef Abell Ong has settled into this bright and cheery Manuka restaurant, offering modestly priced, authentic cuisine as one might find in a KL coffee shop.
Abell’s menu covers a range of dishes from authentic Malay and Indonesian, mod-Asian fancies, and a selection of traditional Chinese favourites. Start with crispy whitebait with balsamic butter, or the vegan satays of fresh tofu, capsicum, zucchini and cherry tomato with a cracking peanut sauce. For mains, try the Teochew fragrant soy pork, served clay pot style, the fiery and pungent sambal squid, or tender beef rendang. Be sure to check the specials board, where you might encounter delights such as crisp fried soft-shell crab, and king prawn and pork pancakes with naam jim sauce. There’s a small but sensible wine list or you can BYO, but we recommend washing down those spicy curries with a crisp Tiger beer instead.
Fiona Davies, February 2006
