PROFILED BY DE GROOTS MEDIANamed for the lovely national bird of El Salvador, newly-hatched restaurant El Torogoz is making a name for itself already, nestled amongst the cobbles of northern Palmerston Lane. Just like its namesake, El Torogoz is small but striking, adding a cheerful vibrancy to the area with its audacious apple-green walls. Inside, simple contemporary furniture combines with Central American knick-knackery to form an aesthetic that is both pleasing and unusual, and every second corner seems to harbour a picture of the little yellow bird.
Proprietors Jorge and Lisette Perez are having fun with this family-run business, serving up classic El Salvadorian cuisine alongside international favourites with a Latino twist. Already the restaurant has attracted a small stream of regulars, due in part to their desire to try everything on the eclectic menu. From soft, handmade tacos with marinated pork and coriander salsa to eye-fillet steak with chorizo, baked potato and chimichurri; there is a danger that once you taste one dish you’ll settle in and try a few more. Meals such as the bouillabaisse with caramelised vegetables and saffron need to be ordered two days in advance, giving you some idea of the care and attention that goes into cooking each dish. With summer on the horizon, the Perez’s are toying with ideas of a new, tropical menu as well as the possibility of a tapas night and live music so keep your ear to the ground.
Stephanie Wang, August 2007
