Profiled by de Groots MediaI’d like to open this article with a memorable and witty anecdote about the Beatles, but this bistro was named simply for the street it’s located on and that’s that. As a rule, I like the straightforwardness of a venue that’s named for its address. I think of it as considerate, an extra little bit of customer service to cut confusion. And I commend Penny’s Lane for what it aims to be: a local bistro that’s accessible and affordable, with good food that’s not too intimidating and fancy. Simon Thomsen’s SMH review made it sound a tad boring; though he acknowledged that sometimes you just want a reliable, easy-going place. And it’s true; locals will appreciate having this place around the corner on a weeknight, neither gastropub nor fine diner but something in between.
Owner Manuel Spinola (Tearoom QVB) has done this once or twice before, and he knows the formula to opening a restaurant. He’s gotten a chef with good credentials, in this case Alastair Smith from Bistro Lulu and Light Brigade. He’s found a good location (downstairs at a boutique hotel – definitely a plus for business) and made it comfortable, although here I agree with Simon Thomsen about unnecessary levels of beige. The final touches of good service and a populist menu of Mediterranean, mod Oz and bistro dishes at reasonable prices should make everyone happy. Perhaps it won’t “rock your socks” as Simon says, but Spinola has one thing right: with more spectacular fine diners than an average Sydneysider can get through, plus all the wannabe’s and flavours-of-the-month we’re subjected to, we could do with a few more in between-ers. And I’ll allow for a couple of flaws, if it safeguards me from ridiculous waiting lists and unwelcome price hikes.
Sarah Theeboom, October 2007
